Defining drivers and barriers of sustainable fashion manufacturing: perceptions in the Global South

Abstract

The practices of reuse and repurposing as sustainability measures are on the rise, particularly in the Global North, emphasizing environmental sustainability. In the Global South, however, the approach to circularity is more inclined towards livelihoods, employment, and education. In the North, remanufacturing and upcycling have been instrumental in promoting sustainable design and manufacturing. Research on circular fashion in Africa, however, tends to be limited to the second-hand clothing market, with a lack of focus on remanufacturing and upcycling as part of circular fashion practice. Thus, this study aimed to explore perspectives on the challenges and enablers of sustainable fashion manufacturing, specifically focusing on remanufacturing and upcycling, within four Cape Town-based fashion businesses. This study also aimed to build upon a previously established conceptual framework, identifying the key barriers and drivers using a tool from the Theory of Constraints. The findings suggested that funding is the primary driving force behind sustainable manufacturing practices, whereas a lack of education on remanufacturing and upcycling was identified as the main barrier.